From the Alpine to Amazonia

Sunday, June 5, 2011

Following our adventure to the Arctic, finding birds has been much more comfortable.

The Endangered Piping Plover at J.T. Cheeseman
Our penultimate day in Newfoundland was spent at J.T. Cheeseman Provincial Park, a half hour cycle from the Port Aux Basques ferry crossing to Nova Scotia. A picturesque sandy beach is J.T. Cheeseman’s finest attraction, but for Jaime and I, visiting this particular park meant a chance to see a very special and rare bird, the Piping Plover. So, that evening as we rolled down the dirt road towards the campground, we decided to detour to the beach and stroll along its shore. Ambling along, we watched a few Common Terns fishing over the ocean, when a pallid, and very plump, little shorebird ran from the sea foam by our feet…a Piping Plover.


My expectations were high for our seven-hour crossing to Nova Scotia, the only mode of reaching mainland Canada without the use of wings. Setting sail around midday, the weather was cool and gusty (-40C was the low that morning), yet the swell wasn’t much more than a meter high. After some exploration, I found a fairly sheltered spot on the ship’s starboard side, from which I could scan the horizon with my binoculars without getting blown around. Before too long, a small group of Razorbills (a penguin-like bird) took flight to avoid pending collision, followed by Northern Gannets, Black-legged Kittiwakes, and even a Minke Whale!

Eastern American Toad
I’d been hoping that Great, Manx and Sooty Shearwaters had returned to the Northern Hemisphere by now, but they were not to be seen on this voyage. In spite of this, three other ocean-dwelling birds were in abundance, including the Northern Fulmar and two tiny, white-rumped, swallow-like seabirds, Leach’s and Wilson’s Storm-Petrels.

A formidable Beaver dam
Nova Scotia feels a month ahead of Newfoundland when it comes to the weather. Today I wore just a t-shirt, whereas before reaching Port Aux Basques, four layers was my minimum. All the deciduous trees here are green with fresh leaves, and no matter where you are, birds will be singing, as they celebrate yet another crossing from South America to the True North. It’s all very pleasant right now.

“Who cooks for you…who cooks for you all?”…a male Barred Owl is hooting in the forest by our tent…must be bed-time.

New Birds:
80. Northern Waterthrush
81. Black-throated Green Warbler
82. Tennessee Warbler
83. Ovenbird
84. Red-eyed Vireo
85. Swamp Sparrow
86. American Redstart
87. Swainson’s Thrush
88. Eastern Kingbird
89. Yellow Warbler
90. Bay-breasted Warbler
91. Great Blue Heron
92. American Wigeon
93. Red-winged Blackbird
94. Cedar Waxwing
95. Yellow-bellied Sapsucker
96. Willet
97. Common Tern
98. Piping Plover
99. Yellow-bellied Flycatcher
100. Razorbill
101. Northern Fulmar
102. Common Murre
103. Leach’s Storm-Petrel
104. Wilson’s Storm-Petrel
105. Bank Swallow
106. Northern Parula
107. Magnolia Warbler
108. Mourning Warbler
109. Alder Flycatcher
110. Red-tailed Hawk
111. American Bittern
112. Cape May Warbler
113. Barred Owl
114. Ruby-throated Hummingbird
115. Olive-sided Flycatcher
116. Common Goldeneye
117. Barn Swallow
118. Least Flycatcher

New Mammals:
8. Minke Whale
9. Red Fox

New Amphibians:
1. Eastern American Toad

New Reptiles:
1. Common (Maritime) Gartersnake

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