A Day in the Arctic

Following Caribou tracks to Gros Morne

The sixteen-kilometre scramble to summit Gros Morne is already in contention for the most grueling experience of our journey.

After a 6km jaunt into a cruel headwind from Rocky Harbour, we reached a parking lot that denoted the start of the trail. Locking our bikes to the safety of the information sign, we commenced our uphill battle. Following the lead of moose and caribou tracks, we eventually emerged from the rich boreal forest into the low, open scrub forests and willows that fringe the mountain’s base.

We were on yet another quest for a single bird….Rock Ptarmigan.

A Caribou wishing us luck before the climb

Rock Ptarmigan in Gros Morne National Park (a chicken-like bird that turns white in the winter) are the most southerly occurring of their species in the world. This is because the Arctic ends on the top of Gros Morne Mountain. Or at least, the species found on the summit are the same as those found in the Arctic further north. Arctic Hares, Caribou and a host of plants and spiders that can be found here, provide an appealing introduction to life in the Arctic. And we were here to experience all of this in a single day.

The section of the trail that takes you to the summit, humbly referred to on the map as ‘The Gully’, turned out to be an extremely long, steep and narrow scree slope half covered in snow. It took another hour of painstakingly careful climbing to proceed to the top, all the while the wind howled into our backs.

A rock path leads across an Arctic scene at the summit

The terrain at the top was cold and desolate, but white feathers (moulted by ptarmigan in the spring) plastered to windswept rocks gave us hope…this was to be our only chance to find these chickens this year.

The barren rocky landscape at the top

Just as the information sign stated, the climb would be strenuous, but the rewards would be numerous. And we weren’t let down.

After another hour of scouring our horizons with binoculars, I almost bumped into a white lump on the track. A male ptarmigan, looking his courtship best. It took almost a minute until we both realised his hen was standing right beside him! She was by far the more camouflaged, a grey colour with many black bars across her feathers that perfectly matched her surrounds. Rock Ptarmigan nest now, so it’s best that she isn’t seen by predators.

Finally, we found one...Rock Ptarmigan!

The pair gave a few clucks, and continued to feed on what little plant life could be found. Sneaking by with smiling faces, we watched as they peered over Ten Mile Pond, the kingdom of another ptarmigan species, some 800m below.

Following triumphant fist-pumps, we continued downwards, savouring final views of another ptarmigan pair, a small herd of caribou, a black bear, and the spectacular glacial formed valleys Gros Morne is famous for.

Jaime contemplates a great day on the mountain

Then it rained, but we had made it back to Rocky Harbour before sundown.

New Birds:

67. Rusty Blackbird

68. Great Horned Owl

69. Ruby-crowned Kinglet

70. Spotted Sandpiper

71. Tree Swallow

72. American Pipit

73. Common Merganser

74. Killdeer

75. Arctic Tern

76. Lesser Black-backed Gull

77. Black-and-white Warbler

78. Rock Ptarmigan

79. Lincoln's Sparrow

New Mammals:

6. Moose (Introduced to Newfoundland)

7. Black Bear